Table of Content
- Wheel bearing adjustment procedures:
- Nuts - 7000 lb capacity -1/2" Cone Lug Nut- Dexter Pack of 4
- Towing
- #8-32 X 1-1/2" Stainless Phillips Truss Head Machine Screw, (50pc), Coarse Thread, 18-8 ( Stainless Steel, by Bolt Dropper
- Here's the bearing apps, should you need them:
- -3.5k Studs - 2000 lb - 3500 lb capacity - .5"-20x2.0" Dexter Pack of 5
- Collection: Studs & Nuts
Needs to review the security of your connection before proceeding. Including a tip is always optional. All tips go towards helping our hard working employees and to making sure you have a great online buying experience. Nut should be free to move with only restraint being the cotter pin .
If sufficient grease leaks past the seal on a brake hub drum, it will centrifuge out with some grease getting on the brake shoes. Grease on your brake shoes will drastically decrease your braking capacity. Turns out my fears were unfounded and that this assembly / arrangement is extremely common on all types of trailer axles. See below for a couple of procedures on how to adjust them. The short story is, screw on nut to finger tight, while rotating hub.
Wheel bearing adjustment procedures:
Once the tire and rim are removed, you pry off the hubs' grease cap with a screwdriver, and here's the hardware you have to remove to remove the hub. I've read to may towing horror-stories to cut any corners with the towing gig. These are the right tool for the job, safe, and are probably not that much, if any more expensive than similarly rated 15" trailer tires of equivalent quality.
Whenever you install new hubs onto an axle, or whenever you install new bearings and races into existing hubs, you should pre-load the bearings. Pre-loading the bearings assures that the races in the hub are 100% in place against their machined stop points and keeps the hub from wobbling after a few miles. Now, if these axles are indeed intended to be one-time use only hauling a mobile home one way....then why would this be so? I'm having a hard time picturing a mobile home being hauled so far that along the way, you'd have to stop, remove the home from the trailer, remove the brakes, have the drums machined, reload everything and carry on.
Nuts - 7000 lb capacity -1/2" Cone Lug Nut- Dexter Pack of 4
Pretty standard drum brake components, at least in function (I haven't checked dimensions for replacement possibilities). However, note that in this pic, the brake "backing plate" is welded - not bolted to the axle tube, so replacement of the whole brake assembly will require creative fab work. Then loosen the spindle nut to remove the torque. Turns out, many home-built and construction-site trailers use mobile home axles as they are cheap and strong and often come with brakes. My first-ever trailer was a rough old home-built piece of junk with what, at the time, I called "wierd, 5-bolt wide-pattern wheel thingey" axles. You are now ready to install your dust cap.
A short piece of 2" I.D. water pipe makes a good tool to install the dust cap. Here are the wheel bearings, with Timken numbers. I had read that these bearings were non-replaceable or non-serviceable. Well, they are certainly available, you can order them by part number from any good bearing shop. Alternatively, the chart below gives some applications you can quote to the guy at the parts counter to get the same bearing (info taken from ) . Pic also shows the hole in the threaded spindle through which the cotter pin slides.
Towing
Continue rotating hub while tightening another 1/4 turn or so to seat/preload bearing. Screw up finger tight again, then back off to the first slot where you can install the cotter pin. To pre-load the bearings, install the spindle washer and spindle nut onto the spindle with the hub and bearings in place.
In my recent research I have read a lot of articles and stories about how it is essential to run properly rated trailer tires when towing a heavy load like 7-8k lbs. Regular passenger car/truck tires do not have the required sidewall strength and using them leads to dangerous blowouts. Never run your spindle nut too tight, this will cause your bearings to over heat. And never run your bearings too loose. A very slightly loose spindle nut will run adequately, but too loose and the individual rollers may come apart in the bearings, causing the hub to fracture. Under the hub is the brake assembly.
#8-32 X 1-1/2" Stainless Phillips Truss Head Machine Screw, (50pc), Coarse Thread, 18-8 ( Stainless Steel, by Bolt Dropper
The waiting times for this flight have not yet been determined or are not available. Please try again later or refer to the information boards at the airport. Bend over the cotter pin legs to secure the nut (or locking tang in the case of E-Z Lube). There's also not a lot of tech info out there available for them. I can't do anything about the design, or the availability of parts, but I can share what i learned about them while I was running them. This is what my first trailer looked like.
Tighten the spindle nut finger tight and then with channel-lock pliers or a crescent wrench, tighten the spindle nut another 1/4 turn or to about 15 to 20 ft pounds of torque. Now turn the hub five to ten revolutions. This will fully seat the races.
Slowly while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 50 lbs.-ft. (12" wrench or pliers with full hand force). The first step is to remove the wheel bolts and little wedge blocks that clamp the wheel onto the hub. This is what the wheel and hub look like assembled.
Now loosen the spindle nut very loose, then re-snug to finger tight, and engage the nut retaining device . At first I was concerned that they may be considered "unserviceable" due to the manner in which the bearings and hub are retained. That is to say, I can foresee problems setting the proper wheel bearing pre-load because of the lack of adjustability with the single-nut-and-cotter pin setup. Particularly if you look at the large distance between the slots in the castellated nut in pic#3 above. At this point you are ready to pre-load the bearings.
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